VideoCipher backup battery dilemma
Most of the VCII+ and VCRS VideoCipher decoders are now about 10 years old. The Lithium backup battery inside your VCII is rated for the nominal 10 years. The batteries life depends mostly on environmental factors like heat and moisture. Many will last 15+ years. These batteries keep the units ID number safely stored in a volatile Integrated circuit. If the battery voltage drops past a low threshold, probably around 2 volts, the VC2 board will loose its ID and become worthless.
If your board is over ten years
old, and buried in a hot cabinet, your days are numbered. Battery thermal
wear-out rates accelerate as temperatures in the environment rise. The voltage
drop off below looks almost sudden on a 10 year graph, the voltage will start
to drop during the last 5% of the batteries life. The voltage could go from
above nominal to zero in six months, or less if the battery has lived under
conditions of high thermal stress.
It is wise to have a spare VCII module, buy a refurbished VC2 and replace the aging board, then have your original module refurbished. Then you will have a spare for at least ten years, if there are any VCII transponders left.
Another option is to trade in the still working board for a refurbished unit. Several of the Dealers at 4dtvforum.com will pre-ship a refurbished unit, so you don't miss any programming. Your old VC2 is sent to the dealer like a core-charge. As long as the old board arrives in good working condition, no outstanding charges, and hasn't been tampered with. Unlike EBay, dealers are accessible, and will warrantee the module.
You will have to contact all of your VC programming providers to have your VCII unit number changed after installing a new VCRS, or VCII+. VCRS boards are the newer RS = renewable Security, they usually have a phone modem, and TV PassCard slot, that will never be needed.
One version of a blue VCII+ unit has an occasional not subscribed bug. You will lose subscription status while watching your favorite show, then you must channel up & down to get the picture back. Some modules also have a problem where the 4DTV will not recognize them. They will decode fine, but their menu cannot be brought up and any VC electronic message sent cannot be cleared. The message or * will appear on the screen, and there will be no way to remove it. (More VC info 4DTV Mark and Tim's Bigdish.info page)
Another option that can be risky is to buy VCRS or VCII+ descramblers on EBAY $20~$50, you can call your provider to check if the board has any non payment or other holds. Be sure to check the feed back of the seller and the terms if it's not subscribe able.
If you’re good with electronics, have a volt meter, and own safety glasses, you might want to read on. Please don’t try this if you have not done a lot of PC board work.
Non Lawyer type disclaimer:
If you screw up your board, or blow an Eye ball out when the lithium battery blows up in your face, don’t come crying to me. You have been warned. Please note, four 4dtvfourm members have recently reported their lithium battery burst while performing un-isolated parallel battery swap out. Always unplug your IRD before yanking or spanking your VCII boards, wait a minute or two after unplugging before removal or insertion of the VCII.
ESD protection and safety glasses should be considered.
3.6 volt, test leads can slip through the slits.
My Son likes to help with projects too.
I tested voltages on three Blue VCII+ boards, all dated in 1990 (3.6 Volt Red Maxell ER-3 batteries) over 13 years old, and tested above 3.7 Volts.
I also tested two old black vcII boards dated 1988, 15 years old; they have Tadiran TL5101 batteries, both above 3.7 volts.
Finally a Pink VCII+ dated 1992 with a 3.0Volt (Yellow Panasonic part# BR-2/3A 3V) battery. It was over 3.1 volts. Most of these boards have been stored for years, not subjected to much extreme heat.
Checking the voltage
If you're handy with a volt meter you can check voltage without cracking open your VCII. If your careful and have a steady hand you can check voltage in about one minute. The probes on most cheap volt meters have threaded plastic insulators that can be unscrewed and pulled back allowing the probes to go in between the slits in the case. The probes need to be about 2" long. Just be careful not to short the probes to anything else.
If you find your voltage at or below 3.7 volts or 3.1 volts, I recommend you trade in the undamaged working board for a refurbished one, I recommend Lee Richardson of Mechtech, or one of other dealers that offer a good trade in deal, with a warrantee. Send Lee an email. (Remove the word "remove" from Lee's address)
Insulator pulled back to make long enough
Needle trick works great. (Eye of needle exposed)
Cheap probes can unscrew allowing 2 inches to go in between the slits and make contact with the battery, I also tested a long sewing needle taped to the probe end, dull side touches the battery, I liked the needle better.
There is a big ground pad near the negative side of the battery; the black probe is touching it. (Above)
3.0 volt Pink board VCII+ Dated Feb 18 1992 Reading 3.089 volts all of the batteries tested were above their nominal voltage.
After studying some lithium spec sheets I found the manufactures rate them from 3.6 volts nominal down to 2 volts. I would start getting nervous if the battery was at or below its nominal voltage (3.0 or 3.6 depending on the battery) in a VideoCipher. A battery at nominal voltage most likely will only have a few Months before dropping to zero
Check the voltage, positive lead through the top slits, negative through the hole on the side.
Change your own battery
If you find your battery voltage at or below the nominal point, or over 10 years old, and are PC board component savvy, you might want to read on. This part is not recommended for someone that hasn’t done a lot of this stuff. Anyone that cracks open a VCII is: Taking a chance at ruining the board, Risking physical injury while cutting into the board or having the battery blows up. Please don’t cry to me if you screw up. Continue at your own risk. Some batteries have an external fuse on the positive lead. Don't cut or bend the leads near the battery. Cut the thin part of the wire one half inch away from the cell, not the fat fuse part. The battery will burst if the fuse breaks from cutters or stress.
Extended Paralleling will degrade new battery
The problem with paralleling the old battery with the new is the new battery will discharge into the old battery, while they are parallel. If you’re replacing a 3.0 volt with a 3.6 volt battery it could cause the old battery to heat up, and degrade and stress the new battery. The battery is designed to take a direct short for 5 seconds during the wave soldering process. If shorted for extended time the battery will heat up and explode,
I recommend that you install the new battery, and then cut the old batteries leads without delay. If you leave both new and old connected, it will limit the life of the new battery, and possibly cause either battery to burst.
Tools and parts
First you need the right tools. A good quality Pencil soldering iron 25 to 40 watt, solder sucker, multi meter, ESD grounding wrist straps, solder, 3.6 volt battery, several inches of small gauge wire. Mouser has good parts, with no minimum $. Mouser’s battery table The TL5101P is a direct replacement, the TL5155p looks very good, a bit longer, and lots of capacity. If you want to go nuts, use a TL2100P or TL2903P. Tadiran make some good batteries
Most VCII boards are glued shut with epoxy. I have used a dremmel tool, or a razor knife & flat blade screwdriver to cut, pry through the epoxy on several boards. Be sure to remove the screw under the hologram label in the center. Careful, you can damage the board or short out the battery. The glue is brittle, and will crack when coaxed with a flat blade screw driver, and twisting motion on the board.
I have updated instructions click here for the updated page
Pink VCII+ Board This board has a lower voltage Yellow battery 3.0 volt nominal
Blue VCII+
Some boards I have seen have a spot for alternate battery. If your volt meter registers 3 volts at the extra spot, install the new battery. Then cut out the old battery.
Click here for my updated info 12/07/05. Pictures and Instructions show a socket type Radio Shack battery. If you use a battery holder rather than the solder in tabbed type battery, there is a slight increased chance of failure from the contacts corroding after many years. If you use an axial pin battery simply solder a few inches of thin red and black wire on the leads, to make swap out easy.
Check out Tim’s VC battery tips and Frank’s VC battery tips for more information.
Alan’s VCII update Alan’s Satellite Page Alan's DSR-920 Battery page
Page updated 02/25/06 using word02 (that's why the html is messed up)