DSR-920 Battery Replacement Instructions

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VCII Battery Replacement Instructions

Alan's Old VC Battery instructions Alan's DSR-922 Battery instructions Alan’s DSR-922 Capacitor replacement

The following DSR-920 Battery replacement instructions are intended for folks that are comfortable soldering electronic components without shorting out their expensive 4DTV receiver, or blowing up the volatile Lithium battery, causing injury, and damage. Please read my old VC Battery page for important tips, and warnings. Don't try this procedure If you are not comfortable doing this type of stuff. Don't cry to me if you loose your DCII ID number. If your DCII ID number is lost, the whole main board must be replaced.

ATS-Electronics.com Check with ATS for a price on replacing the battery, or main board.

Mouser has replacement batteries; the original battery is an ER17/33 (2/3A) 3.6v. I recommend the TL-5995P. The same battery will work well in a VCII or DSR-922

Some tools needed:

Torx screw driver

Philips screw driver

35 watt pencil soldering iron, thin 60/40 rosin core solder, Solder sucker

ESD protection, goggles, magnifying glass, pencil light

Small wire cutters, needle nose pliers

Hot glue gun, or double sticky tape, or RTV silicone/ rubber cement (some glues can corrode PC boards while curing)

Volt/ohm meter

Sharpie marking pen

Watch my cage removal video

(Click on pictures for full size view)

Remove 4 screws to access VCII module.

Swing ejector levers at the same time to pop out VCII module

Remove black DSR-920 Main cover, and then remove 4 screws to release VC2 cage. Gently swing cage up enough so

You should mark the three Molex plugs with identifying marks. Carefully unplug the three marked Molex plugs.

Swing gage out of the way. (mark the plugs so you don't put them back wrong)

Test extra battery solder pads for voltage with Volt meter

Solder in Positive lead in new hole. Either use solder sucker, or place wire on pad, place pre-tinned 35 watt iron against pad/wire once molten glide the wire through the board about 1/8^th inch.

New battery is installed; wires just barely go thru board. If you push to far, the battery will short to case below.

Carefully cut or de-solder old leads. I de-soldered the negative, and cut the positive using small wire cutters. The positive side was kind of tight, so I opted to snip it rather than melt down adjacent components with my soldering iron. Your mileage may vary.

Inspect board with magnifying glass to make sure no solder splattered.

The positive tab was soldered to the board at 3 points. So I chose to cut the tab, and leave the old tab as it is shown.

A drop of hot-glue holds the new battery in place (double sticky tape, or electric board rated silicon).

Carefully put everything back together, be extra careful when you re-connect the Molex plugs. Make sure the pins are lined up. If you plug them in backwards, to the wrong plug, or one pin off (pin hanging out on one side) you will fry the unit. After plugging them in confirm the plugs are lined up properly. Make sure you don't pinch any wires when you lay the cage in place. Visually inspect wires before putting the screws back in. Gently turn unit over and shake to make sure no foreign objects are inside. Install black case.

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