DSR-922 Battery Replacement Instructions |
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VCII Battery Replacement Instructions |
Alan's Old VC Battery instructions Alan's DSR-920 Battery instructions Alan’s DSR-922 Capacitor replacement |
The following DSR-922 Battery replacement instructions are intended for folks that are comfortable soldering electronic components without shorting out their expensive 4DTV receiver, or blowing up the volatile Lithium battery, causing injury, and damage. Please read my old VC Battery page for important tips, and warnings. Don't try this procedure If you are not comfortable doing this type of stuff. Don't cry to me if you loose your DCII ID number. If your DCII ID number is lost, the whole main board must be replaced.
ATS-Electronics.com Check with ATS for a price on replacing the battery, or main board.
Mouser or Digikey have replacement batteries and electrolytic capacitors; the original battery is an ER17/33 (2/3A) 3.6v. I recommend 2/3A 3.6V CYL W/LEADS; there a little bit bigger but will also last longer than the original.
Last time I bought TL-5955/P batteries
Some tools needed:
Torx screw driver
Philips screw driver
35 watt pencil soldering iron, thin 60/40 rosin core solder, Solder sucker
ESD protection, goggles, magnifying glass, pencil light
Small wire cutters, needle nose pliers, double sticky tape to hold the battery down
Volt/ohm meter
Sharpie marking pen to help identify proper Molex plug placement
DSR-922 Battery
If your DSR-922 is about 10 years old, or lives in an oven read on.
This procedure requires removing the main board completely, since the placement and options are more limited than the DSR-920.
Follow instructions on my DSR920 battery page, and then remove all screws, and f-connector rings from back panel. Remove screws holding board down. Use a sharpie and mark all Molex plugs so you can put them back correctly later. Carefully lift main board out without shorting out the battery backup, or damaging board. Place on ESD material.
Watch my VCII cage removal video
(Click on pictures for full size view)
After confirming 0 ohms from negative lead of old battery to pin 6, Solder negative lead to pin 6, don’t accidentally short to pin 5, instant ID loss could occur since pin 5 is + and down stream of the protective diode and voltage holding 4.7uf capacitor. A little electrical tape over pin 5 and 7 could help.
Confirm same voltage from plus lead of old battery to the extra + hole. Solder suck extra hole clear of solder from bottom of board, or top if you’re confident. Carefully push plus lead through hole and solder from under board. The material on top of the board near the hole is ground. If you allow too much solder to flow up to the top, it will short the battery to ground, and soon kill the board if not cleared. Leave old battery connected until both leads of new battery are connected.
After you confirm the new battery is put in the right direction and secured with double sticky tape, heat and gently lift the negative tab of the old battery. Check voltage, if ok take a break.
Carefully remove the positive tab by heating tab near holes and gently pull out, or carefully rock tabs back and forth until the tabs break from the board.
Look carefully at the plus and minus paths, everything that surrounds the small + holes is ground. Be careful not to blob solder on the plus lead, or empty holes from old battery. Look at the new battery plus lead, which has way too much solder blobbed on top, lucky it didn’t short to the ground foil that surrounds it.
There are other ways to do this, P1 pin 5 might be ok to use for positive, but it bypasses at least a diode (CR2) and 1k ohm resister (R2), the positive path should be confirmed and all bypassed components should be added to the positive lead if this method is used. If this path is what I think, a small 1k resistor and diode could be soldered inline with the positive lead.
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